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Achieving a flawless spray tan isn’t just about applying color—it’s about selecting the right shade to enhance each client’s natural beauty. Using the wrong depth or DHA percentage can lead to results that are too light, too dark, or even uneven. That’s why professional shade selection is a game-changer in the sunless tanning industry.
Understanding skin type, DHA absorption, and key factors like hormones and event styling will help you create a custom tan that looks seamless, natural, and long-lasting.
The Fitzpatrick Scale & Why It Matters
The Fitzpatrick Scale is the foundation of spray tan shade selection. It categorizes skin based on how it reacts to sun exposure, helping determine the appropriate DHA level for each client.
Type I → Very fair skin, never tans, always burns.
Type II → Fair skin, burns easily, tans poorly.
Type III → Medium skin, tans after initial burn.
Type IV → Olive skin, burns minimally, tans easily.
Type V → Brown skin, rarely burns, tans darkly easily.
Type VI → Deep brown to black skin, never burns, always tans darkly
Using this scale ensures the most natural and flattering results for every skin tone.
Skin Moisture & DHA Absorption
Not all skin absorbs DHA the same way. A client’s natural moisture level plays a huge role in how their tan develops:
Dry Skin → Absorbs DHA unevenly, leading to patchy fading. A light moisturizer the night before tanning helps.
Balanced Skin → The ideal skin type for even absorption and smooth fading.
Oily Skin → Can resist DHA, leading to lighter results. A deep cleanse before tanning ensures better development.
By factoring in skin moisture levels, you can prevent common tanning mishaps and create long-lasting, even results.
The Redhead Exception
Redheads have unique DNA that often affects how they absorb DHA. Even if they fall under Fitzpatrick Type I or II, they typically require a darker shade than expected to achieve a natural-looking result. This is why strawberry blonde and auburn-haired clients are scored higher on the SHINE Shade Selection Guide—an industry trick we call “The Redhead Exception.”
When to Adjust a Shade Up or Down
Even with the perfect skin assessment, there are situations where bumping the shade up or down makes sense:
Hormone Levels → During pregnancy or menstruation, the body may resist DHA, so increasing the shade slightly helps maintain the desired result.
Special Attire → Bold colors pair better with a darker tan, while pastels work best with a softer glow.
Photography Considerations → Cameras process color differently—when posing with others, adjusting the tan ensures both subjects look balanced.
By making these small tweaks, you can provide a custom, camera-ready tan for any occasion.
Want to Master Shade Selection?
Shade selection is more than guesswork—it’s a science and an art. If you want to take your expertise to the next level, we’ve created The Art & Science of Shade Selection, an in-depth training designed to teach you everything you need to know about selecting the perfect spray tan shade for every client.
💡 Get certified and set yourself apart as a true tanning expert.
📌 Ready to level up? Enroll in the course today and start giving your clients their best tan yet!
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